When choosing an engagement ring or diamond jewellery, we often don’t think about where it comes from, how it was mined, or the provenance of the gem. But the ethics behind choosing diamond jewellery has to be a part of your decision-making process if the spectre of ‘conflict diamonds’ and the conditions in which diamond miners are forced to work are to be eradicated.
In this article, we’ll introduce you to the concept of ethical diamond jewellery and explore how ethically sourced diamonds are transforming the way we perceive high-quality jewellery. We’ll look at the process of traceability and explore new ways in which diamonds are being introduced to the market, including lab-grown diamonds. We’ll discuss the Kimberley Process in more detail and provide tips on how to choose sustainable diamond jewellery that – quite literally – doesn’t cost the earth.
What are the issues around conflict or blood diamonds?
The materials used in jewellery, and in particular diamond jewellery, are mined and extracted from many different countries. Unfortunately, some of these countries and the mine operators involved in the extraction of diamonds have questionable human rights records or are notorious for their abuse and poor working practices.
This causes unimaginable suffering among some of the world’s poorest communities. The damage caused by unethical or unsustainable mining practices to the environment, as well as violent conflicts between rival operators, means that some of the diamonds in high-street jewellers have a blood-soaked provenance and a high environmental cost.
To combat this, the concept of sustainable jewellery and ethically sourced diamonds is increasingly popular with consumers. These consumers, thanks to the internet and investigative reporting, are now far more aware of the price paid to put a diamond in an engagement ring and are turning their backs on ‘conflict’ or ‘blood diamonds’ in favour of ethically sourced diamond jewellery.
Why should we make an ethical choice?
When it comes to the way we live our lives, we all want to believe that we make the right choices. We want to be reassured that our diamond jewellery doesn’t come with a legacy of pain, environmental damage, or human conflict. Ethical diamond jewellery enables us to make informed decisions when selecting sustainable options that do not contribute to environmental damage or the exploitation of diamond miners.
A brief history of diamonds – good and bad
The hardest-known substance to man, a symbol of eternal love and devotion, precious, glittering, mythological, cursed, and blood-soaked, diamonds have a truly complex history. Diamonds were first used in jewellery in India in the 4th century BC, despite most deposits being formed over 900 million years ago.
The first diamonds journeyed along the Silk Road from India and China back to Europe, where they became prized for their brilliance and beauty. It didn’t take long for diamonds to become the most precious and highly sought-after of gems, fit for kings and queens, and forming the basis of legends and tales of adventure.
Once the Indian mines began to be depleted, the search for new sources of diamonds commenced. In the 1860s, the discovery of a 21.25-carat rough diamond on the banks of the Orange River in southern Africa led to the discovery of vast new wealth of mines, which culminated in the extensive Kimberley Mine in the 1880s.
Sadly, though, human nature dictates that the most precious of gems becomes a target for greed and conflict. The discovery of mines in South Africa coincided with colonial rule, and while European countries profited and built vast, incredibly wealthy empires based on diamonds, the local population saw no benefits and people were forced to work in the mines under appalling conditions.
Fast-forward to the 20th and 21st centuries, and conflict diamonds – those mined in countries with highly volatile and violent backgrounds – became a high-profile concern. To combat the influence of conflict diamonds, the idea of creating methods to secure ethically sourced diamonds became a priority.
What are ethically sourced diamonds?
The concern with conflict diamonds is that it can be incredibly difficult for jewellers to track the source of an individual stone, even if they would like to sustainable diamond jewellery. Complex supply chains can conceal a multitude of transgressions, so the first and most important consideration is to identify the origin of a stone clearly. If its provenance can be established without question, then it’s easier for jewellers to make the right decision on which stones (and which suppliers) to use.
One of the biggest challenges in identifying the source of a diamond is the distinction between ‘artisanal’ mining and industrial mining. The former is often informal and poorly regulated across many African countries (where most diamonds come from), making oversight and legal verification difficult. Industrial mining is today far more regulated and controlled, with a robust legal framework ensuring that workers are paid a fair wage and work in a safer environment.
A transparent journey
At the top of the agenda for ethical diamond jewellery is the establishment of a transparent supply chain. One of the leading advocates for this is De Beers, one of the world’s oldest and most established diamond mining and supply companies. Their blockchain platform, Tracr, helps them to trace the origins of any diamond from the mine to the jeweller’s bench and the shop window, supporting greater transparency.
The Kimberley Process
In 2003, an international initiative was launched to stop the trade in conflict diamonds once and for all. Known as the Kimberley Process, named after the largest diamond mine in South Africa, it aimed to halt the sale of rough diamonds used to finance armed conflicts across Africa and elsewhere.
The Kimberley Process makes buying sustainably sourced and ethically certified diamonds much easier, as every shipment must have a Kimberley Process certificate and be sealed in secure, tamper-proof containers. Only compliant countries can trade with one another, and the process is enforced with international laws that transcend borders.
The Kimberley Process now covers over 99% of rough diamond production. Even this process has its flaws and critics, who claim the system is purely financially driven and doesn’t address the broader issues of human rights violations, such as child labour, nor the environmental impact of non-sustainable sources.
The Lab-Grown Alternative
The two factors that turn base carbon into diamonds are heat and pressure. Until recently, the levels of pressure required to create artificial diamonds were almost impossible to replicate. Today, however, lab-grown or cultured diamonds are achievable, thanks to cutting-edge technology that mimics the conditions required to create natural diamonds.
Because they use the same process, albeit in laboratory conditions, lab-created diamonds are optically and chemically identical to their natural counterparts. In fact, they are identical to natural diamonds, and only a specialist can visually tell them apart, so you can regard lab-grown diamonds as ‘real’.
However, because the process of creating them is now more cost-effective, it has brought down the price of lab-grown diamonds compared to natural gems by as much as 30%. They can also be regarded as truly ethically sourced diamonds, as there is far less environmental impact and no ethical issues surrounding their production.
Lab-grown diamonds also only produce 0.028kg of CO2/carat, compared to 125 kilograms for natural diamonds, and only require 18.5 gallons of water to produce, compared to around 126 gallons used when mining diamonds. So lab-grown diamonds are definitely more sustainable and eco-friendly.
Buying ethical jewellery: Steps to take and what to look out for
All the information you need to make an informed decision when buying sustainable diamond jewellery, whether that’s a pair of stud earrings, a bracelet, a pendant, or an ethical diamond engagement ring, is available online. There are known brands that specialise in providing a truly ethical buying experience, including complete transparency on the sourcing of all elements of their jewellery, such as gems and precious metals. These brands will often publish sustainability reports and certification from organisations such as Fairtrade Gold, the Responsible Jewellery Council, and, of course, the Kimberley Process.
If you’re not sure, sit down with your jeweller and ask about the supply chain. If they operate under ethical principles, they will be more than willing to answer your queries and provide proof that their diamonds are KP-registered, for example.
You can also opt for a more sustainable approach by selecting lab-grown or artificial diamonds for your ethical diamond jewellery. Or, if you feel you want that ‘authenticity’, why not choose upcycled vintage jewellery instead? The only issue with that, though, is that there is no guarantee on the ethical status of the materials used in older pieces. Handmade, bespoke pieces with traceable origins are the best way to buy sustainable diamond jewellery with confidence.
By buying ethical jewellery, you are helping to limit conflict diamond circulation, as well as reducing the economic disparity in developing nations and preventing the exploitation of diamond mine workers, especially in illegal ‘artisanal’ mining operations.
Popular ethical diamond jewellery brands
Several diamond jewellery brands pride themselves on offering strictly ethical and sustainably sourced diamond jewellery.
FAQs:
Where can you buy ethically sourced diamond jewellery?
Ethically sourced diamond jewellery is becoming the norm rather than a rarity. While you may find it advertised in many high-street jewellers, it is best to visit a brand or outlet that has a proven track record of producing and selling jewellery with ethically sourced diamonds and other materials, along with a clear and transparent supply chain.
How much does ethical diamond jewellery cost?
For natural, ethically sourced diamonds, the price is comparable to non-specific gems. However, lab-grown diamonds can be up to 30% cheaper than natural diamonds, and are guaranteed to be both ethical and sustainable.
How can I ensure that I’m buying genuine, ethical diamond jewellery?
Look for certification from organisations such as the Kimberley Process, Fairtrade Gold and the Responsible Jewellery Council. B Corp Certification is also an indicator that the seller is providing sustainable and ethically-sourced jewellery.
Keep your jewellery sparkling with insurance from TH March
Whether your diamond jewellery is vintage or contemporary, an ethically sourced engagement ring or ear studs made from natural diamonds, it has value. Replacing any diamond jewellery is expensive, so give yourself the peace of mind that the financial cost of your precious pieces is covered with jewellery insurance from TH March. For over 130 years, we’ve been providing bespoke insurance for fine quality jewellery, protecting your most valuable assets with insurance that’s custom-made for custom pieces.
You can find out more about our cover by exploring our Jewellery Insurance page. Alternatively, you can get an instant, no-obligation quote online or talk to one of our team for no-fuss advice on all your jewellery insurance needs. Call us today.