If the low cost of a sparkling diamond engagement ring or dazzling tennis bracelet caused a double take, the jewellery likely features lab-grown diamonds rather than natural ones. Affordable, beautiful, and ethical, these manmade stones have been sending ripples across the global jewellery scene, but how are lab diamonds made, and do they compare favourably to the real deal?
Lab diamonds are stones created in a laboratory using techniques that simulate the conditions under which natural diamonds are made deep within the earth’s crust. Just like natural diamonds, they are composed purely of carbon atoms that crystallise under extremes of pressure and heat.
Because of the techniques and starter materials used, lab-grown diamonds are chemically and optically identical to natural diamonds. They form with different levels of clarity and colour and can be cut and polished just like a natural diamond. Thanks to their lower price tag and greener credentials, they have become popular with jewellery makers and consumers alike.
Two processes are currently used to create lab diamonds – CVD (Chemical Vapour Deposition) and HPHT (High Pressure, High Temperature). When you purchase a lab diamond, a reputable jeweller will tell you which growth method was used. Some jewellers prefer HPHT diamonds for their structural quality and colour clarity, though CVD diamonds are also widely used and can reach excellent grading standards, especially with post-growth treatments.
Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD) diamond production
CVD is often a more energy-efficient and cost-effective way to make lab diamonds, though it can take longer to grow a diamond compared to HPHT. The downside is that the diamonds often need further processing to make them jewellery standard.
If you’d like to know how to make lab-grown diamonds using the CVD method, the following steps are used:
High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) diamond production
Producing the diamonds that are favoured by gemologists and jewellers for their high quality, the HPHT process is more costly since it requires higher pressure and temperatures. Although colour variations and imperfections do occur, HPHT diamonds are less likely to require further treatment to make them ready for use in jewellery. How are HPHT lab diamonds made? The following steps are taken:
Whichever production method is used, the lab-grown diamonds created and processed are graded just as those mined from the earth’s crust are, for carat, colour, clarity, and cut. And, like natural diamonds, this means some lab-grown diamonds are more expensive than others based on their superior size, cut, and appearance.
You’ve asked how are synthetic diamonds made, but what about the key differences between these and natural diamonds?
Price
The key difference between lab-grown and natural diamonds has to be the price. The diamonds we mine today were created billions of years ago, and high clarity, high carat, naturally occurring diamonds are scarce. This heritage and rarity make high-grade natural diamonds a prestige stone, and people are willing to pay a premium for that.
When you learned how to make lab-grown diamonds, you discovered that the processes require a large energy input and specialist equipment. Regardless, lab diamonds are still much cheaper than mined diamonds – sometimes by up to 80%. It isn’t simply the case that it costs less to produce lab diamonds than it does to mine them from the earth’s crust. There is a finite number of natural diamonds in the earth, making them valuable on account of their rarity. Lab-grown diamonds can always be made in infinite numbers. Therefore, they are not rare and do not hold that same innate value.
Conflict free
The blood diamond scandal rocked the jewellery world. When certain strands of the diamond trade were revealed to contribute to global conflict, consumers started to demand change. Though jewellers have made great strides to source conflict-free diamonds, you can have complete peace of mind when you opt for a lab-grown diamond rather than a mined one.
Ethical
As the media shone a spotlight on blood diamonds, it also became clear that mining communities were suffering at the hands of the diamond industry. Poor working conditions, inadequate pay, and even the use of children turned the diamond trade sour for many. The sector continues raising standards for their workers, but by choosing a lab-grown diamond, you know you will avoid unethical mining practices.
Environmentally conscious
The environmental impact of diamond mining on the local landscape also started to raise great concern at the turn of the century. Mining companies dig up huge swathes of land as they seek out bountiful mines, and then, as the mining process begins, habitats are destroyed, the soil is eroded, and water sources can become contaminated. Once a mine has been excavated to its full potential, the land can take many decades to return to its original ecological balance.
Although lab diamond production still needs to hone its green credentials, manufacturers are striving to become more energy efficient, and generally, the process has much less impact on the environment.
Lab-grown diamonds are becoming increasingly popular, with growing numbers of niche jewellers specialising in these stones and high-end and high-street jewellers embracing the growing trend. These budget-friendly beauties are making diamond jewellery more accessible, but what is it about them that has captured the consumer’s attention?
Not just a lookalike
When you asked, “How are lab diamonds made?” you saw that they share all the same chemical and optical attributes of a natural diamond. This means lab diamonds not only look the same as natural diamonds – they are the same, chemically and structurally. They offer the same brilliance, twinkling seductively in the light, and they sit at a 10 on the Mohs hardness scale, making them just as durable as their natural counterpart.
Previously, when people were looking for the diamond aesthetic but with a lower price tag, they’d turn to clear stones like white Moissanite or cubic zirconia. But when you choose a lab-grown diamond, you’re getting a real diamond with all its coveted attributes, only for a fraction of the cost.
Only a jeweller or gemologist with specialised equipment can spot that a diamond was lab-grown; no one can tell by looking at your jewellery that your diamonds aren’t natural.
Maximising your budget
Lab-grown diamonds have become especially popular in the engagement and wedding ring market. Choosing a lab diamond over a natural one means you can have a larger centre stone, a higher clarity, or a fancier cut within your budget. The lower price of lab diamonds allows couples to add side stones or a halo to their engagement ring when such designs may have been too expensive with natural diamonds.
Perhaps you’ve always dreamed of a diamond-encrusted bracelet, a pear-cut diamond pendant, or a matching diamond jewellery set. With lab-grown diamonds, the cost of these aspirational pieces falls significantly, allowing you to elevate your jewellery collection for less.
Aligning with your consumer behaviour
We’ve all grown more environmentally conscious over the years, and with our knowledge of fast fashion and unethical working conditions, we now care far more about the provenance of our purchases. While those with a generous budget can happily purchase diamonds mined to the highest industry standards, these high-cost stones may be out of reach for others. When you explored “how are lab diamonds made”, you discovered that laboratory production can deliver great quality stones, conflict-free and within budget.
Is a lab-grown diamond right for me?
We’ve answered the question, “How are synthetic diamonds made?” but are you sure whether a lab diamond is right for you? Ultimately, it comes down to what you want from a diamond. Do you long for a diamond because it is rare and precious? Do you love the idea of adorning your finger with an ancient stone forged by heat and pressure long before humans existed? If you have answered yes, a natural diamond may be a better fit, and this would also be true if you are seeking fine jewellery that will retain its value over the long term.
If you adore diamond jewellery mostly for the ubiquitous icy aesthetic and dancing reflections of light, it is well worth considering a lab-grown diamond. These manufactured stones are also an excellent choice for those who put sustainability and environmentally friendly practices at the top of their wish list when purchasing. And finally, if you have a tight budget but want jewellery that looks and feels that extra bit special, a lab diamond ticks all your boxes.
What should I consider when buying a lab-grown diamond?
If quality is your top priority, select an HPHT diamond over a CVD diamond. Lab diamonds are graded exactly like a natural stone: by carat, cut, colour, and clarity, so you can decide what matters most to you as you maximise your diamond budget. For example, if you want a supersized sparkler, you could balance a higher carat with a slightly lower clarity. A top tip – look for eye-clean lab diamonds. These look perfectly clear to the naked eye, and their imperfections are only visible under magnification, but because they have a lower clarity grading, they cost you less.
How much is a lab-grown diamond?
While a one-carat natural diamond, boasting the cut, colour, and clarity grades preferred by jewellers, would cost in the region of £8000, a lab diamond with the same credentials could cost under £2000. That’s not to say you’ll need to pay at least £2000 for lab-grown diamond jewellery. Many pieces feature a much lower carat; the lower the grade, the cheaper the stone.
Can I insure lab-grown diamond jewellery?
It’s important to let your insurer know whether your diamond jewellery features natural or lab-grown stones. This will ensure your pieces are neither over nor underinsured. TH March can insure your lab-grown diamond jewellery with premiums that start below £60 a year. You’ll enjoy worldwide accidental damage, theft, and loss, allowing you to repair or replace your favourite lab diamond pieces should the worst happen. Get a quick quote online, and with just a few more questions answered, you can obtain our comprehensive, specialist jewellery insurance cover today.