Is that elegant Rolex watch on your wrist the real thing, or is it a clever and convincing fake? It’s estimated that the luxury counterfeit goods market is worth billions of pounds every year, with Rolex watches at the top of the list of the items most likely to be faked. But how can you tell a Rolex is real? Are there any methods that can help you distinguish a fake Rolex from a genuine one?
In this article, we’ll look at the problem of counterfeit luxury watches, particularly that most desirable of brands, Rolex. We’ll examine the different ways of spotting a fake Rolex and how to identify a genuine watch. We’ll let you know how to spot a fake Rolex at home, as well as the methods the professionals use, and give you some tips so you can avoid buying a counterfeit Rolex.
The problem of counterfeit luxury watches
In 2023, a report by Watchfinder & Co., one of the UK’s premier luxury pre-owned watch specialists, found that the levels of counterfeit watches were staggering. And it wasn’t just ordinary watch owners who were getting caught out either – the report estimated that around 14% of collectors had counterfeit watches in their collections, with over 1 million fake watches believed to be in circulation. And that’s just in the UK. The problem is global, with fake Rolexes flooding all markets from Hong Kong and India to Europe and America.
Approximately 40 million fake watches are sold globally each year, with over half of those being Rolexes. That demonstrates just how significant the problem is and how convincing these counterfeit watches are. In many instances, it can be almost impossible to distinguish a genuine Rolex watch from the sophisticated fakes that are being produced.
It’s not just a problem for the duped buyer, either, as the sheer volume of fake watches has an impact on the trust people have for the brand itself. The Watchfinder & Co. report also found that nearly 70% of people who had been conned with a fake watch were less inclined to purchase pre-owned watches, purported to be Rolexes, in case they got stung twice.
Spotting the good from the bad
When trying to determine if a Rolex is genuine, there are authentication markers that can provide clues. The weight, movement type, serial number location, rehaut engraving, and crown etching should all match the Rolex standards. The easiest to authenticate is the serial number or reference number. Every genuine Rolex has its own unique reference number, which is listed in a verified Rolex database.
Which are the most commonly faked Rolex watches?
Due to their high resale value, market demand and brand identity, Rolex’s most commonly copied models are the Submariner, the GMT-Master II, the Daytona, and the Datejust. If the watch you want to buy is any of these models, take extra care when checking its authenticity.
Top ten tips on how to identify a fake Rolex watch
Rolex are very particular about who they allow to sell their product, with authorised Rolex retailers and reputable platforms or pre-owned outlets that offer authenticity guarantees and full returns policies. If a dealer is not an authorised seller, or transparency regarding servicing, authentication, and the supply of all Rolex paperwork is lacking, it’s a red flag that the watches they are selling may not be genuine.
This is one of the most famous and easiest ways to identify a fake Rolex. A genuine Rolex (excluding the Oysterquartz models) has a second hand that ‘sweeps’ rather than ticks. If the second hand visibly appears to ‘tick’ each second, or you can hear a ticking sound, it’s a sign of a fake Rolex.
Except for some vintage Oysterquartz models, no other genuine Rolex watch has a quartz or battery-powered movement. All official Rolex watches feature a mechanical movement, which is either manually wound or automatic. This is one of the easiest ways to spot a fake Rolex as opposed to a genuine one.
A Rolex uses high-quality metals, including stainless steel, gold and platinum. Stainless steel Rolexes weigh around 100-160g, gold versions weigh between 190-220g, and platinum Rolex watches can weigh as much as 270g. If a watch claiming to be a Rolex feels lightweight, it’s probably fake.
To determine if a Rolex is genuine, verify that the serial number is engraved, not etched. The serial and model number of every authentic Rolex is engraved onto the metal between the lugs that connect the band to the body. If it’s a fake Rolex, the numbers will most often be acid-etched onto the surface and will not match the correct model. You can check the correct number on the Rolex database. Modern models will also have the word ‘Rolex’ engraved three times around the rehaut, and models made since 2002 will have a tiny crown micro-etched at the 6 o’clock position on the crystal.
This may seem obvious, but if you spot any spelling mistakes on the watch, it’s a surefire sign of a fake. It’s one of the easiest visual indicators and will help you spot a fake Rolex a mile off. The lettering should be crisp, evenly spaced, and with no ink bleeding (a common indicator of a fake Rolex). The font design is used across the Rolex range – any variations on the classic lettering are likely to be a poor quality counterfeit.
The cyclops that sits over the date window magnifies the numbers. It should be crystal clear and free from bubbles or blemishes, and centred precisely. Some models, such as the No-Date Submariner, the Deepsea, and the Sea-Dweller, do not have cyclops magnifiers in their design. The cyclops is actually a very useful method of identifying a fake Rolex. Firstly, they are convex, so if you run your finger over the surface, you should feel a slightly raised bump. If it’s flat, it’s probably fake. The magnification of the cyclops on a genuine Rolex is x2.5. If you look at the watch from the side and the date doesn’t appear to be any different in size than when viewed through the cyclops, it may be a fake.
A good way to identify a real Rolex is to take it for a swim. Authentic Rolex watches aren’t just splash or water resistant; they are genuinely waterproof. That means if your watch stops when you go swimming, it’s not an authentic Rolex. For example, the Oyster collection is waterproof up to 100m, so if your Rolex stops working in a light rain shower, it’s likely due to a malfunction.
This is an instant and accurate visual representation of a genuine Rolex. The crown you see on the winding mechanism is actually packed full of information about the specific model of Rolex watch. It should have the Rolex coronet prominently positioned, and then you’ll see a series of dots or bars, which indicate its waterproof rating and case material (gold, steel or platinum). If these details are missing or incorrect for the model, it is likely a fake.
This is definitely a check you can do instantly – look at the back of the watch. There should be absolutely no markings, engravings, or glass exhibition cases (except on a couple of very rare examples), and the metal should be plain and polished. If there are any markings whatsoever, even a genuine-looking Rolex coronet, it’s a fake.
How to avoid buying a fake Rolex
While you can identify an authentic watch by picking up on details when the watch is in your hands, how do you spot a fake Rolex if you’re buying online, for example? Well, first of all, avoid buying a Rolex from online auction sites, where there are thousands of fakes sitting alongside the occasional genuine watch. The trouble is that you cannot tell from the photos – they may not even show the same watch that comes through your letterbox a week later.
If you are going to buy a Rolex online, make sure you buy from the official Rolex website, or at the very least, a well-known and trusted seller (authorised by Rolex). Not only will they have new Rolex watches for sale, but their pre-owned watches will have been checked and authenticated by a professional.
Your Rolex should come with a certificate of authenticity. Although not all vintage Rolexes have their original paperwork intact, you can still identify a real Rolex watch by checking the database for the serial number and model number.
FAQs
Why shouldn’t you buy a fake Rolex?
Not only could you be helping to finance criminal gangs around the world (who are at the heart of a great deal of high-end counterfeiting), but you could also have your watch confiscated by customs officers during shipping, or when it’s taken to an authorised Rolex service centre for repairs or servicing.
Where are genuine Rolex watches made?
Official Rolex watches are made from conception to completion in Switzerland.
Is it true that Rolex is a non-profit organisation?
No, it is a profit-making company, but since its inception in 1905, it has operated along highly philanthropic core principles, with much of its profits going to support a wide range of causes, including the arts, science, environmental campaigns, and its own mentoring program to encourage the craftsmen and women of the future. Rolex is now owned and operated by the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation.
Can I get my Rolex verified online to check its authenticity?
You can initiate the verification process online, but full authentication typically requires an expert to inspect the actual watch in person. For a definitive verification, you should take the watch to an authorised Rolex dealer, who will be able to carry out a full inspection and check the watch against the Rolex database.
Can insurance protect you in the event your watch is deemed fake?
It’s the call that no Rolex owner wants to get – they’ve checked your watch and it’s a very convincing fake. If you’ve paid thousands of pounds for what you believed was a genuine Rolex, you could be left with a big hole in your bank account. Sadly, most watch insurance policies will not cover you for counterfeit goods – they are only designed to cover the genuine article.
Most policies for high-ticket items, such as a Rolex, will require authentication and proof of ownership before they agree to insure it. If that item then turns out to be fake, the policy will be null and void as the item is considered to have no insurable value. It could also land you in trouble with the law, as an insurance provider may then notify the police as a potential case of fraud, especially if they believe the watch was misrepresented as genuine.
This places the onus on you to verify its authenticity before purchasing any insurance. At TH March, we offer bespoke coverage for high-end watches, and our team know how to identify a genuine Rolex and can spot a fake straight away. As part of your insurance process, we can work with you to arrange a full inspection and authentication of your watch by a Rolex specialist, including certification.
Insure your Rolex with TH March
For over 130 years, TH March has been providing specialist watch insurance that gives you total peace of mind with global cover against accidental damage, loss and theft. With low-cost premiums and a personalised service, insuring your Rolex watch with TH March is the most effective way to protect your financial investment. If you do need to make a claim, we will send you back to your jeweller of choice, wherever possible.
You can find out more by visiting our Watch Insurance page, or use our online Get A Quote service for a free, no-obligation and instant quote. If you’d rather discuss your needs in person, please call us today to speak with one of our professional advisors.