Every single piece of vintage jewellery tells a story. Whether it’s glittering diamonds set in an Art Deco platinum design, a bright bit of costume jewellery, a bold mid-century ring, or a delicate Art Nouveau necklace, it has a history, a heritage, and a unique tale.
Over the years, grime and muck get into every crevice and crack, so it’s vital to clean vintage jewellery regularly to keep it looking as bright as the day it was made. But how do you clean antique jewellery? And what considerations do you need to take into account when comparing cleaning vintage jewellery compared to modern pieces?
In this article, we’ll take you through the subject, offering expert advice on how to clean antique jewellery safely and without causing damage. We’ll discuss the products and preparations you can use, tips on how to clean old costume jewellery, and what not to do. We’ll look at gemstones and which ones should be handled with extra care, and give you some tips on how to keep your vintage jewellery looking its best all the time. We’ll also look at some of your most frequently asked questions.
Why does antique jewellery require special care?
For a piece of jewellery to be considered ‘antique’, it must be over 100 years old. That’s a lot of wear, exposure to the elements, getting knocked, dropped, lost, found again, stuck in a drawer for decades and then finally brought back out again. A long life can take its toll on jewellery, making mounts and clasps weak through repeated wear and tear. That makes older jewellery much more delicate than modern pieces.
The way modern jewellery is made has also changed over the decades, with more durable, long-lasting materials incorporated into contemporary pieces. Newer jewellery designs include fewer fine embellishments, such as the incredibly delicate filigree work that was exceptionally popular during the Victorian and Edwardian eras. Modern jewellery also uses different gems, such as cubic zirconia, which are far more robust than older gemstones.
All of this means your antique jewellery needs a little extra love and attention when it comes to cleaning.
Our top tip: If you’re not sure about the integrity of a piece of vintage jewellery, and there is evident damage or signs of weakness in the mountings, links, or other elements, don’t try to clean it yourself. Hand it to a professional jeweller, who will be able to carry out any repairs before cleaning.
What type of cleaner should you use for antique jewellery?
It can be tempting to rush straight in with a jewellery cleaning solution you’ve bought online, some warm, soapy water, and a cloth. However, while standard jewellery-cleaning methods are usually perfectly fine for modern jewellery, vintage pieces may need a little more care. Some of the contemporary cleaning agents can be too aggressive for older jewellery, potentially damaging the surface or dulling stones.
The first thing you should do is to know exactly what you’re working with. On gold, silver, and platinum, you’ll find hallmarks that indicate the age (a year date), where the piece was assayed (such as London or Birmingham), and the carat of the metal. Some vintage jewellery develops a distinctive patina on its surface, which can add to its charm. Removing this may make it look like new again, but it can also diminish the piece’s character. So gentle cleaning is the way forward, even with robust metals such as gold or platinum.
Plated metal on costume jewellery also requires careful cleaning to avoid removing any patches of the gold or silver plating and creating an unappealing effect.
The risks of using standard jewellery cleaner on antique items of jewellery can also relate to the type of gemstone you’re dealing with. Some with a softer Mohs rating, or those that can react to harsh cleaners, such as opals or pearls, may be permanently and irreversibly damaged by harsh jewellery- products. Again, our tip is to consult an expert if you’re not sure.
The wrong cleaning method can damage your precious vintage jewellery and costume pieces, so it’s worth taking the time to ascertain exactly what you’re dealing with before you proceed.
Cleaning methods – Precious metals
For gold and platinum, the most straightforward and least invasive method of cleaning vintage jewellery is to use warm water, a mild detergent such as unperfumed washing-up liquid, and a soft toothbrush.
If your jewellery contains gemstones that are water-resistant, pop it into a dish of soapy water and leave it there for a few minutes to loosen any dirt, dust, or grime. Then remove the jewellery from the dish and carefully use the brush to remove any dirt. If your jewellery contains ‘soft’ stones, such as opal, avoid dipping the piece into water. Instead, moisten the brush with soapy water and start gently cleaning the metal with gentle strokes.
The key here is patience. Avoid ‘scrubbing’ the jewellery with the brush as this can easily damage the surface or even loosen gem settings. Focus your attention around the setting prongs, behind the bezel, and in those crags and corners where dirt accumulates over the years. The trick is to keep rinsing the piece in the water (if it can be submerged) and repeating the process rather than scrubbing harder.
Once you’ve finished cleaning your antique jewellery, rinse the piece thoroughly in clean water to remove any soap residue. Allow the piece to dry completely and then buff gently with a soft cloth. Store in a pouch to keep your jewellery clean and protected.
For silver (including 925 and Sterling silver), a silver polish and a very soft microfibre cloth will restore the metal’s appearance without damaging the surface. Apply a little polish to the cloth and work in a circular motion, rubbing the piece carefully until the shine returns. Avoid using silver dips on antique pieces – these can strip patina and damage finishes.
Plated metal and costume jewellery
The technique for cleaning vintage costume jewellery is the same as for precious metals. However, you do have to consider that the plating layer is measured in microns and is very delicate. Harsh chemicals or over-energetic scrubbing will easily damage the plating. If this happens, the patina and character of the piece will be lost, and the only way to restore it will be to hand it over to a professional jeweller for replating. The same considerations apply to rose gold jewellery, which is also plated to achieve its unique colour.
Remember that when you’re cleaning vintage jewellery, you’re preserving the piece rather than restoring it. Take your time, be gentle, and focus on removing the surface dirt.
Cleaning methods for gemstones in antique jewellery
The same principles of gentle cleaning techniques and mild cleaners apply to cleaning gemstones in your antique jewellery. While most gems are relatively robust, they should still be treated with care.
Before you start cleaning any gemstone jewellery, check it thoroughly for loose stones, damaged settings, or other issues. Cleaning a damaged piece may cause the gem to become so loose that it falls out. If you see any indication of damage, have the piece professionally repaired before cleaning.
For most relatively hard gems on the Mohs scale, warm, soapy water is all you’ll need to remove any dirt or grime. You can also buy specialist gemstone-safe cleaners designed for cleaning vintage jewellery but make sure they’re labelled as safe for antiques or delicate stones. If you’re attempting to clean your vintage gemstone jewellery at home, start by testing your process on a tucked-away part of the stone. If you see any change in the surface, discolouration, or dulling, stop immediately, rinse with clean water and speak to a professional jeweller on how to proceed.
Some stones, such as opals and pearls, are susceptible to water damage. They need specialist cleaning and should be handled with care to prevent blemishing.
What not to do
Top jewellery maintenance tips
When properly cared for, your jewellery can look beautiful for years. Over time, vintage and antique jewellery develops a unique look that deserves to be preserved. Here are some top jewellery maintenance tips to keep your jewellery looking its best.
How often should I clean antique jewellery?
You should clean vintage jewellery fairly regularly to keep it looking its best, without removing its patina or character. Remember, it’s about preserving the piece, not restoring it to ‘brand new’.
I’m having a vintage ring resized. Is there anything I should say to the jeweller?
Make sure that the jeweller is aware that the piece is vintage/antique and ask them to ensure the resizing is done sympathetically. You don’t want a bright new piece of metal spoiling the shank’s look, so ask them to make sure it’s carefully blended to match the patina of the existing metal.
What should I do if I damage my antique jewellery?
Don’t try to clean it if it’s damaged. Antique jewellery repairs can be tricky and should always be handled by an expert. Take it to a trusted jeweller for repairing and cleaning.
Should I pay someone to clean my jewellery?
If you don’t feel confident cleaning your antique jewellery or don’t know how to clean your old costume jewellery, paying a professional to do it for you avoids mishaps and gives you peace of mind.
Insure your antique jewellery with TH March
For over 130 years, TH March has been providing customers with bespoke insurance for their most precious possessions, including antique jewellery. We understand that vintage jewellery has not just monetary value but also sentimental value. That’s why our Jewellery Insurance is there to help you cover the costs when your jewellery is lost, damaged, or stolen.
You can find out more by browsing our Jewellery Insurance page, or contact our team direct to discuss your needs for one-off and rare antique jewellery insurance. You can also get an instant, no-obligation and completely free quote using our Get A Quote online form today.