From the earliest pocket watches of the 17th century to high-precision modern timepieces, watches have been an intimate part of our lives for hundreds of years. No matter your budget, you’re likely to own at least one watch and may be on the lookout for another right now. If so, our watch buyer’s guide is here to help.
If you’re wondering how to choose a watch that suits your lifestyle, your image, and your wallet, this guide will take you through the basics of how to find a watch that’s right for you. We’ll take a look at the ‘engine’ of watches, as well as how to define your style. We’ll examine how to pick the right size and fit and talk about durability versus aesthetics. We’ll also give you a breakdown of different watch brands for different budgets, as well as discuss the importance of insuring your latest timepiece.
The importance of finding the right watch type for you
A watch isn’t just a thing that tells the time. It’s one of the most visible pieces of jewellery you wear. It’s constantly on show, so not only does it have to be functional, but it also needs to be aesthetically pleasing. The sheer variety of watch types on offer can turn choosing a simple timepiece into a protracted debate.
If you simply cannot decide, remember one key factor: nobody ever said you could have only one watch in your collection. You can overcome this initial form-versus-functionality debate by creating a collection that’s as flexible as the rest of your jewellery. So, you can have your Rolex for special occasions and a more practical, budget-friendly Seiko for everyday wear, for example.
If we break down the decision-making process for finding a watch, it falls into several distinct sections.
• The occasion: Do you want a watch that simply tells the time, or do you love your technology and are drawn to the multi-functionality of a smartwatch? Does the sublime simplicity and flawless craftsmanship of a Swiss quartz watch appeal to you, or do you want something more rugged and hard-wearing?
Then there’s whether that tough, masculine diver’s watch you decide on really goes with a black tie outfit for a gala event. Or if your smartwatch looks out of place with a cocktail dress and high heels instead of trainers and tracksuit bottoms. You need to work out how to find a watch that suits the occasion, rather than one that feels out of place or clashes with your style.
• Your personal style -a good timepiece can be an elegant reflection of your own personality. You may prefer the classic look of an unadorned yet exquisitely crafted premium watch that aligns with your own taste and style. If you’re a more gregarious, outgoing personality, then brighter colours, funky, modern designs, or quirky characteristics may be more your style. If you love the outdoors, adventure, and exploration, a more utilitarian design may be suitable, as well as tough enough to cope with your lifestyle.
• The movement – The choice falls into two camps: analogue or digital. For a classic look, an analogue face with a three-handed movement (second, minute, and hour) is the natural option. Digital watches, and in particular smartwatches, are a more urban, 21st-century selection.
• Budget – A key factor in choosing a watch is the budget. You may aspire to own a Rolex Oyster, but a budget that doesn’t quite match its price tag. Watches range from a few pounds to hundreds of thousands for the rarest and most sought-after timepieces. How much you spend is entirely up to you.
More things to consider when buying a watch
Each key consideration can be broken down further, helping you refine your search and eliminate watches that don’t meet the criteria.
Choosing the ‘engine’
At the heart of every watch is the movement. We’ve already spoken about the two main types – analogue and digital. But beyond the actual face of the watch, the ‘engine’ falls into a few more refined categories:
Quartz watches
A quartz watch uses a battery to power the movement, then uses a quartz crystal to convert the battery’s energy into mechanical motion. An electronic charge from the battery vibrates the quartz at a specific frequency. This regulates the movement, creating a reliable, highly accurate watch. Because they have very few moving parts, quartz watches are relatively inexpensive, providing a stylish and affordable option.
Mechanical watches
Mechanical watches are at the top of every watch buyer’s guide and have a heritage stretching back centuries. If you take the back off a mechanical watch, you will see that characteristic and extremely intricate movement made up of cogs, gears, and springs, expertly created by craftspeople with decades of experience. The watch has a mainspring that needs to be physically wound using a small turning knob on the side of the case. This powers a balance wheel that, through a series of gears, moves the hands.
The easiest way to tell the difference between a mechanical watch and a quartz watch is to watch the second hand’s movement. If it ‘sweeps’ smoothly rather than ‘ticks’ each second, it’s a mechanical watch. This sweeping motion is typical of high-end watches, such as a Rolex.
Automatic watches
Automatic watches use a very clever piece of technology that ‘self-winds’ every time the wearer’s wrist moves. Inside the housing is a weighted pendulum that transmits energy through to the spring. With a storage capacity of up to 48 hours, it doesn’t need to be worn regularly, but aside from that, it doesn’t require much maintenance. The most famous automatic watch is the Oyster Perpetual, which is based on a case design introduced in 1926 and the automatic “Perpetual” rotor, introduced in 1931 – although it has evolved significantly since then.
Smartwatches
Technology has galloped ahead, turning the humble timepiece into a wearable computer. Smartwatches don’t just tell the time and the date; they can monitor your heartbeat, tell you how much sleep you’re getting, take phone calls and messages, and much more. Smartwatches usually pair up to a phone app where you can download the data gathered by your watch during the day. If you’re very active (or want to be), a smartwatch is a great daily wear and a practical choice for a more dynamic lifestyle.
Define your watch style
Part of learning how to find a watch that suits you is to define the watch style you feel drawn to. This will depend on factors such as lifestyle, functionality, and your personality.
Everyone’s watch is different. Not only do they reflect your character and personal style, but they may also have practical applications. Watch styles are a combination of aesthetics and functionality, and fall into several different categories:
• Dress watches – At the top of the ‘bling’ pile are dress watches. These are designed to be worn as jewellery rather than primarily as a functional timepiece. The principal design factor behind dress watches is simple elegance. They are meant to complement your formal attire but can also be worn for everyday use.
• Pilot and racing watches – Large dials and aviation-inspired additions, such as multiple time zone indicators, are the primary features of pilot watches. They’re a masculine choice for everyday wear. Racing watches incorporate highly accurate stopwatches into their dials and are ideal for those with a sporty lifestyle.
• Diver’s watches – Designed to work underwater and with chunky, clear faces and robust straps, diver’s watches are a real statement watch that also offers plenty of functionality. If you spend a lot of time outdoors in the elements, diver’s watches are a practical as well as a stylish choice, as the seals prevent water ingress from ruining the mechanism.
• Field watches – The trend for military-style or field watches remains popular. Simple, rugged, and designed for use outdoors, they’re tough enough for everyday wear. If you’re looking for an entry-level watch, field watches are a perfect option.
Sizing and fit
Watches come in all shapes and sizes, but fundamentally they fall into two categories: men’s and women’s. When you’re choosing a watch size, think about who the watch is for, their physique, and the occasion. Men’s watches tend to be larger to suit a more substantial physique, so the faces are generally between 36 mm and 42 mm in diameter, and the straps are wider and more robust. Women’s watches are smaller to suit a slimmer wrist, with faces of between 28mm and 38mm with narrower straps.
The watch’s style will also dictate its dimensions. A diver’s watch will be much thicker and more rugged than a slim, elegant dress watch. Consider the watch’s intended use (everyday, outdoor/adventure, or formal) and your personal size. A large, chunky watch can look out of proportion on a slim wrist, unless you want to wear it as a statement piece.
Materials and durability
From gold and platinum to stainless steel and modern composites, there is a wide variety of materials used in the manufacture of modern watches. The material used will play a key role in a watch’s durability and functionality.
The ‘crystal’ –This is the covering of the watch face and is either plastic or glass. Plastic watch faces are usually made from acrylic, which is extremely tough, lightweight, and long-lasting, but prone to scratching and damage from chemical exposure. Glass crystals are made from heat-treated glass and are more scratch-resistant but can chip or even shatter if exposed to a hard shock such as a drop from height. In very high-end luxury watches, the watch face cover is made of sapphire crystal, a synthetic compound that is exceptionally hard and scratch resistant. However, it can also shatter when impacted.
The case – This holds the watch’s engine, so it needs to be made from a robust, corrosion-resistant, and exceptionally strong material such as stainless steel. An alternative is titanium, which is exceptionally strong but much lighter than steel. For luxury watches, gold and platinum are popular metals, but they have disadvantages: they are more prone to scratching. However, they are hypoallergenic, which makes them suitable for those with sensitive skin or who want to wear their watch all day, every day.
The bracelet/strap – the third key component to any watch is the bracelet or strap. This can be made from a variety of materials, from fabric bands on military watches, leather or plastic on modern watches, or metal bracelets with interlocking links. Bracelets can be resized by removing or adding links. For prestige watches such as Rolex, the bracelet is an important part of the brand and contributes significantly to the watch’s overall value.
Brands
Watch brands fall into three groups: luxury/high-end, mid-range, and affordable. This is where budget dictates which group you select from, and whether you’re choosing a watch to wear every day, or simply for special occasions.
Luxury watches
Most people will automatically gravitate towards Rolex, but there are a few other names to consider when looking at luxury watches. At the very top of the luxury list is Patek Philippe, regarded as the doyenne of watchmaking and a highly collectable, aspirational brand. You’ll need a considerable budget, though, as an entry-level Patek Philippe watch, such as a Calatrava model, will cost from approximately £15,000 new, depending on the model.
Rolex is one of the world’s most recognised luxury brands, with watches such as the OysterPerpetual and Submariner in particular holding their value extremely well. A slightly more affordable but still high-end option is Omega, with a strong engineering and innovation background, and a heritage that includes being the first watch brand to reach the moon as part of the Apollo space program.
Mid-range watches
These brands still exude luxury, but fall into a more affordable category, forming the backbone of most watch buyer’s guides. The most popular brands in this section are well-known names such as TAG Heuer and Tissot, both of which fall into the hundreds-of-pounds bracket rather than the thousands. They deliver reliable functionality, sleek good looks, and, with the TAG Heuer brand, a strong modern aesthetic that’s particularly liked by younger watch wearers.
Affordable watches
Everyday brands like Seiko, Casio, and Timex are budget-friendly, reliable, and ideal for everyday wear. Seiko is renowned for its innovation and reliability, while Casio was one of the first brands to embrace digital functionality. Timex has a real heritage feel, while Swatch is a colourful, fun option that also appeals to collectors of modern watches. You’ll pay anything from £20 upwards for many of these brands.
Where to buy a watch – online vs in-store
Going into a store to find a watch gives you the unique ability to see the watch in the ‘flesh’. It lets you try it on to see how it looks on your wrist, whether it feels comfortable, and whether it looks proportionate to your wrist size. It also allows you to see a watch in natural light, which can make a big difference to its appearance when compared to an online photo (which may have been altered).
However, online buying offers a far greater selection of watches, often at more competitive prices than in-store watches. The important thing is to do your research and buy from trusted retailers, especially when buying a high-end or luxury watch.
Top tips for buying a watch
• Try before you buy – Testing different types of watches lets you settle on one that really speaks to you and harmonises with your personal style.
• One watch for different occasions – If you have plenty of cash to spend on your watches, then you can build up a collection with a watch for every occasion. But if you’re limited to just one watch, look for one that is stylish enough for formal eveningwear but robust enough for everyday wear.
• Do you really need a smartwatch or a diver’s watch? – Consider your lifestyle – if you’re the outdoors, adventure-loving type, then a diver’s watch may be ideal. If you love staying fit and leading an active lifestyle, a smartwatch is a perfect choice. But if you’re a stay-at-home type or have a more sedate lifestyle, a simple mid-range watch from a brand such as TAG Heuer may be more suitable.
• Resale value – With luxury watches in particular, the resale value is an important consideration. High-end watches hold their value extremely well, while lower-value watches tend not to achieve such high resale prices.
How do you spot a fake watch?
Fake watches are actually easier to spot than you might think. High-end watches use dense materials, so a fake Rolex will feel lighter than a real one, for example. Look for giveaways such as a watch with a sweeper second hand that shows a noticeable ‘tick’ movement instead, or misaligned text or uneven letter spacing. Serial numbers should be clean, crisp, and engraved, and all serial numbers should, of course, match any paperwork that comes with the watch. And remember, if the price seems too good to be true, it’s often a very good indicator that the watch for sale is a fake.
Don’t forget to insure your watch
A luxury watch represents a significant financial investment that needs to be protected. At TH March, we’ve been providing specialist jewellery insurance, including watch insurance, for over 130 years. We have the experience, the expertise, and the know-how to help you find the right level of cover for your prestige jewellery and watches. You can find out more about our services by browsing our Watch Insurance page. Or contact us directly and speak to one of our team in complete confidence for no-nonsense, practical advice on insuring your valuables with a trusted broker. Call us today.